Mongolia Monday- Not MORE Argali? Four Great Days At Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve

Those of you who have followed this blog for awhile know that I’ve been going to Ikh Nart since my first trip in 2005. This time I had the pleasure of sharing the reserve with a fellow artist, Pokey Park.

Wildlife being what it is, one never knows what one will see on a given trip, or even if. But this visit exceeded our every reasonable expectation. For two of the four days, it seemed like we could hardly go an hour as we drove around the reserve without seeing argali, ibex, argali and ibex in the same place or cinereous vultures, a golden eagle or other birds. And we had sightings both other days, but not nearly as often.

The universe being what it is, on our way out of the reserve we drove through one of the areas where we had had multiple sightings of argali and ibex the previous morning and saw not a single animal.

We stayed at Nomadic Journey's Red Rock Ger Camp
Ikh Nart landscape
Scanning for argali and ibex
But I was the lucky one who first spotted a single ram, who then joined up with a big group making ten all together. What a sight they were!
We maneuvered through the rocks, caught up and re-sighted them three times
They've seen something, we had no idea what
Golden eagle
A herder's winter shelter for his livestock
One of the pictographs on the rock cliff
We went to the valley where the research camp is located and got great sightings of a large group of ibex
And for a bonus, a beautiful sunset
We also were able to follow this group of ewes and lambs
How many sheep can you see?
They are totally at home in these rocky uplands
Black kite
We drove south to see the pictographs and Tibetan inscriptions on the cliff in the background
Pokey helped fill the troughs; it's a Mongol tradition that passersby will fill them if they are empty
Ibex pictograph; researchers have just started to catalog and study the cultural resources of the reserve, of which there are many
Argali ewe and lamb
Argali ram

Next week, it’s on to Gun-Galuut Nature Reserve.

EBay Listing- “Grizzly Bear”

Grizzly Bear 5x7" oil

Click to bid here and for more information.

Mongolia Monday – Arburd Sands Ger Camp And An Interesting Side Trip

The next stop on the “artist’s tour” was Arburd Sands ger camp. This was more a “cultural” stop, than for wildlife viewing, but we got some of that, too.

This was the third time I had stayed at the camp and it was great to see owners Batbadrakh and his wife, Densmaa, again.

Arburd Sands ger camp; the dune complex behind the camp is about 20km long and is one of the northernmost extensions of the Gobi.
Exercising a young Mongol race horse; the owners of the camp are members of a prominent horse racing family.
We took a day trip to two local sacred mountains; this is Baga Hairhan Uul (Small Sacred Mountain).
Scanning the mountain paid off with this sighting a few female Siberian ibex; you can just see one on the lower right side of the second pointed rocks from the left, the head and half the body are visible.
Nearby, to the left of where we were sitting, was a cinereous vulture nest with an adult and fledgling.
Our second destination...Zorgol Uul, one of my favorite mountains.
On the south side is this lovely stupa; the fence is festooned with khadag, blue offering scarves.
On the "front" facing the main road south was a cinereous vulture nest that I don't remember seeing on previous trips.
At the base of the mountain is a small seasonal lake; to the left of the khadag is a large rock with a Tibetan inscription and if you look up to the top you can see a black kite perched on another big rock; quite a composition.
The family that runs the ger camp is known for its horses. One came in third in the State Naadam race this year, which is a big deal since the first five are considered almost equally winners in a 35km race that may have over 400 entries; I asked if the horses were nearby and could we take pictures of them and, yes, they were only a kilometer or so away. The stallion's manes are allowed to grow and grow and grow....because that is believed to give them strength. We got some great shots!
While we were there, three men, probably relatives or friends of the owner, came by to check out the horses.
One of the highlights of the entire trip was seeing Sodnam again; I "met" her when my husband and I were at Arburd Sands in 2008 and we took to each other immediately even though we couldn't speak each other's language. She's 92 now and I'll bet she's caused some mischief in her time. She's Batbadrakh's brother's wife's mother. The lady on the right is the mother of Batbadrakh and the widow of Choidog, his father.
Then it was our turn to ride; I really liked this sarel (grey) gelding and asked Densmaa if they could box him up and send him to California; a joke since I don't think Mongol horses would do well at all in our higher humidity sea level climate.
The Arburd Sands ger camp is set up in a new spot every year or so to protect the land; this year Densmaa grinned at me, pointed to the table and lounges and said "How do you like our beach?" We liked it a lot even though it's a bit far from the ocean.
And one of the reasons is that it was a great place to watch spectacular sunsets like this one.
There really is nothing quite like storm light over Mongol gers.

Home Again. And Album Of “I Was There” Photos

Five wonderful weeks in Mongolia just flew by. I managed to spend three of those weeks in the countryside: two weeks doing the “wildlife watching” tour with nationally-known sculptor Pokey Park and then a week of camping with a guide/cook and driver.

Lots of great reference and stories to match will be posted here in the weeks to come, but for now I’m still catching up and working on a couple of new projects, about which  more later.

In the meantime, here’s a collection of the photos that have me in them, most taken by our great driver/guide, Khatnaa, who brought his own camera and who definitely has an eye as a photographer.

Lunch up in the mountains of Hustai National Park
Mongol horse ride #1 at Arburd Sands ger camp
Stupa at Zorgol Uul, a mountain not far from Arburd Sands
Probably my favorite photo from the trip; I met these women in 2008 when my husband and I went to Arburd Sands and I was thrilled to see them again this year; Lkhamsuren, on the right, is the widow of famous horsetrainer, Choidog, whose son, Batbadrakh, is now family patriarch; Surenjav, next to me, and I somehow connected in 2008 even though we couldn't talk to each other due to the language barrier. She's 92 now and is Batbadrakh's brother's mother-in-law. Being Mongolia, neither expressed any real surprise at this western woman who they met three years ago walking into the ger one morning to say "Sain bain uu"
Orphaned argali lamb at the Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve research camp
Happiness is a nice ger and comfy del at Gun-Galuut Nature Reserve
After the second longish hike up a steep slope in one morning, I was rewarded with this great view of the valley of the Kherlen Gol; Chinggis Khan almost certainly knew and rode through this place
Mongol horse ride #2 at Jalman Meadows ger camp, up north in the Hentii Mountains, and overlooking the valley of the Tuul Gol, which also flows through Ulaanbaatar
The second night of the camping trip, I got to stay overnight with a herder family for the first time. It happened to be the home of my driver, Puugee, who on the right. Next to me on the left is Hashchuluun, his wife, then a lady who I did not catch the name of and, finally, Puugee's oldest son, one of three

Back In Ulaanbaatar After A Wonderful Trip To The Countryside

Sitting in front of my ger at Gun-Galuut Nature Reserve

I just returned the day before yesterday from this year’s trip to the countryside. I’m a little wiped out at the moment, so this will be a short post, but I wanted to check in, post a couple of images and say that there will be more, a lot more, after I get home and have time to absorb and process the past two weeks.

Nationally known sculptor Pokey Park joined me on the tour of the best wildlife watching places in Mongolia. We had a great time together and I’m really looking forward to seeing her first Mongolian animal subjects, not only wildlife, but also the domestic cashmere goats and yaks.

Mongol horse with leg striping that indicates takhi blood in her background

It seems that each of my trips ends up having a theme, one subject that I get more and better reference of than any other. This time it was the Mongol horses. We encountered group after group of beautiful horses in all kinds of colors and markings.

We also had great sightings of takhi, argali and ibex.

Daraa uulzii! (See you later!)

Mongolia Monday- Almost Time For My Next Trip!

Early evening, Baga Gazriin Chuluu, July 2009

One week from tomorrow I’ll be leaving on my sixth trip to Mongolia. I’ll spend six days in Ulaanbaatar and then will be going out to the countryside with a fellow artist, sculptor Pokey Park. I’ll be showing her the best places I’ve found for viewing wildlife: Hustai National Park, Baga Gazriin Chuluu Nature Reserve, Ikh Nartiin Chuluu Nature Reserve and Gun-Galuut Nature Reserve.

Depending on internet availability, I’ll do a post when I can.

This trip is a little different because I haven’t had to buy any new gear, just make sure I’ve got it packed. And for that I’ve got a list I’ve honed over time.

I’m expecting to see very visible changes in Ulaanbaatar as the economy heats up from the start of various mining operations and a flood of would-be investors pouring in from all over the world. But I know the timelessly beautiful countryside, my beloved earth roads and the hospitality of the herders will be there for me and now I get to share it with a fellow artist.

I’m finishing up the painting of Carolina parakeets and intend to debut it here on Friday, but otherwise,  until I post from Land of Blue Skies….daraaa uulzii! (See you later!)

Mongolia Monday- Countdown To Departure! Plus How To Cross The Street In Ulaanbaatar

Peace Avenue, August 8, 2008

I’ll be leaving on my 2011 trip to Mongolia two weeks from tomorrow. Things are pretty simple this time, no new gear to buy for a change. Duffles are out and I’m starting to collect various things I’m taking and staging it all in the guest room.

I’ll be staying with a family in Ulaanbaatar for the first week, seeing friends, getting a couple of new del made and doing some sketching. I’ll also be checking out how much things have changed since last year, when there was a lot of sidewalk repair and general clean-up going on in the central part of the city.

Contrast

It will also be interesting to see if any of the traffic calming measures are working. At this point, the biggest adrenaline rush I get in Mongolia is crossing the street in UB. On my first few trips, I literally waited at a corner until an elderly Mongol or a young mother with small children came along and then I crossed with them, figuring they would get at least some consideration.

The last trip, I finally (mostly) figured out the pattern and started to cross on my own. The drivers cut it really close, but aren’t actually trying to hit anyone (mostly), so the safest course of action is to do what they expect. This does, however, often leave my lizard brain screaming at me that “You’re gonna die!”

Buildings lining Sukhbaatar Square: the reddish one on the left is now the stock exchange

But I still like the crazy city, which has great energy and vibrance, along with some really cool architecture and good restaurants. And it’s such a contrast to the countryside, with its earth roads, incredible scenery, wildlife, herders and quiet.

Saikhan Gobi (Beautiful Gobi)

Two weeks to go….

Mongolia Monday- 5 Mongol Proverbial Sayings

Grandmother and grandson, Sept. 2008

I’ve come to believe that one way to learn about someone else’s culture is to find out what some of the popular proverbial sayings are. Mongolia is no exception.

A Mongol Facebook friend has been posted proverbs from what seems to be a new book. Fortunately, he has translated them into English, which means I can read them myself and share them with you.

Sunset, Khomiin Tal. Zavkhan Aimag, Sept. 2006

If the mind is clean, fate is good (Sanaa sain bol zaya sain)

Greed keeps men forever poor, even the abundance of this world will not make them rich.

Wise men talk about ideas, intellectuals about facts, and the ordinary man talks about what he eats.

Ovoo, Hangai Mountains, July 2010

One who has strong body will be a warrior for a generation
One who has a great wisdom will be a hero for thousands of generations~Injanashi

Easier to love a dead hero than a live king

Main temple, Gandan Monastery, Ulaanbaatar, Sept. 2006

It’s Naadam Weekend In Mongolia!

This is the biggest holiday in Mongolia. Ulaanbaatar pretty much shuts down for a few days while everyone celebrates and attends competitions in the Three Manly Sports: horse racing, wrestling and archery.

I got to see all of it, including a local celebration, in 2009. Here’s some photos, ending with a wonderful music video by one of the most famous singing groups in Mongolia, Nomin Talst. The group is no longer together and this video was made some years ago, but it still gets played on the music video channel around this time of year. And it’s one of the things that hooked me on Mongolia. I had to find out more about the kind of people who are shown in it and who clearly know how to have a good time today, while preserving their ancient traditions and sports.

The horsetail standards are brought out of the Parliament Building
Soldiers on matched palomino Mongol horses ready to take the standards to the Naadam Stadium; one of the Best Government Buildings Ever, which includes a big statue of Chinggis Khan
Ladies who had been in a traditional clothing fashion show watched from the sidelines
The horse tail standards are set in place for the duration of Naadam
The President of Mongolia addresses the crowd
There was a parade of famous athletes and celebrities; I was told this man is a very famous wrestler
Where else but Mongolia? In comes the Mongol Queen and her warrior entourage
A display of the national flag; on horseback, naturally
Then it out to the valley for the horse race; almost to the finish line
I was told that close to half the population of the country was in and around this valley that day; judging from the traffic we hit getting there, I can believe it
Back in UB, a mom starts her little one off right
The winner of the archery competition, a Buriat man, accompanied by his wife, both looking great!
Then it was my turn. For about a dollar, I got to shoot a real Mongol bow and arrow and got a pretty good distance
Mongol wrestling (Bokh) is pretty simple- first wrestler to have a body part touch the ground other than the feet loses- but within that simplicity are endless subtle complexities; I'm definitely a fan
Going down....

And now….Nomin Talst singing “Minii Mongol Naadam” (My Mongol Naadam):