I just returned from four great days at Delger Camp, operated in conjunction with Nomadic Journeys, and which is located at the Khogno Khan Nature Reserve, about six hours west of Ulaanbaatar. Staying in one place for awhile is very useful for getting in serious painting time. I do quick pen and ink sketches while on the road, but there’s usually not time to get out the watercolors.
Along with the paintings and sketches from this current trip, I also thought I’d share other pieces I’ve done up to now. Everything was photographed in less than optimal conditions in the apartment I have the use of, but I felt that sharing them while I’m still here would be fun and have an immediacy that would be missing if I waited until I get home in a couple of weeks.
They were done with either a Winsor Newton Cotman watercolor travel set or Yarka poured pigment watercolors and a Robert Simmons Sapphire brush. The paper is either Arches 140lb cold-pressed or a w/c paper I brought back from the Lake District in England many years ago. The pen sketches were done in a 7×5″ Pentalic Nature Sketchbook. I used a non-waterproof pen with a Koi waterbrush for the one with the tone and a .01 Sakura Micron pen for the others.
Gloomy day, so I did this watercolor study of the stove in my gerCloudy and rainy day studies at Jalman Meadows and Gun-GaluutStupa above river valley at Ganchen Lama Khiid, ErdenetsogtPrayer wheel at Ganchan Lama Khiid, ErdenetsogtLily studies, Delger CampView of sand dunes, Delger CampValley north of Delger CampWetland/dune areaDunes and treesVariety of vegetation, wetland area and surroundingsStorm light and storm clouds at Delger CampRain to the southClouds coming byMountains to the north of campToned sketchQuick sketch of wetland area (the driver was coming any minute to pick me up)Rocks and birch treesRock formationWild poppiesBirch tree
I had first come to Gachan Lama Khiid on my two-week camping trip in 2010. I had never heard of it and was completely enchanted. So when the idea was floated about taking a different route back for at least part of the return to Ulaanbaatar, I thought of coming back and sharing this place. No one knows about it, really, not even many Mongols. If you google it, my previous post from 2010 is pretty much what comes up.
I think the old temple, the only structure besides the main gate which was left after the destruction of the monasteries in the late 1930s, is one of the most beautiful buildings I’ve ever seen. This time we were able to talk to the lamas and a staff person who live and work and worship there and learn more about it. A new temple has been built and we were allowed to enter and take photos in it and also the old temple.
The old temple is badly in need of restoration. One side is so unstable that it is propped up with timbers. There are a large number of exquisite works of art on the walls, most of them in need of attention. One can see areas of wood rot in parts of the structure. The monks came up with a restoration plan and sent it to the appropriate government ministry two years ago, but have not yet gotten a response. I promised them that I would see what I could do. This post is partly to keep that promise, but I will also be following up once I’m back in Mongolia this June (there was no time left last year and the monks are almost impossible to contact due to poor mobile phone reception). I documented as much of the damage as I could and have posted some of those images here as reference and to show some of what needs to be done. Honestly, this place should be on the list of World Heritage Sites.
A final note: The monastery is not set up for visitors. I’m not sure what facilities are available in the soum center nearby. If you go, plan to have everything you need and be respectful. Namaste.
We arrived after dark and it was very cold. And going to get colder as we were up in the Hangai Mountains almost due north of Bayanhongor. People were found and we were not only given permission to camp right on the monastery grounds, but allowed the use of one of the outbuildings for cooking and eating. The next morning we emerged to morning light that cast a magical glow on the temples…
The old temple.The surviving gate; a new enclosure is being built around the complex.Stupas with the river in the background.Stupa.The “kitchen”. Soyoloo, our cook, and Tseegii, our guide, making breakfast for everyone.Entrance to the “kitchen”.Corner detail showing the delicate fretwork.Blue elephant.Blue guardian.Carved and painted lotus.Doorframe carving.Corner animal and bell.Schematic of monastery before most of it was destroyed.Sign over door in three languages: Tibetan, Mongol vertical script, Chinese.Buddhist symbol set of deer and wheel over door. It is said that the first creatures to come to the Buddha when he sat under the Bodhi Tree to teach were two deer.Timbers supporting one corner of the old Temple.Wall painting.Wall paintings.Old temple interior.Main altar in the old temple.Wall paintings.Lama throne.Altar figurines.Thanka.Wall paintings.Wall painting of the monastery in the winter. This one was everyone’s favorite, including me.Door panel painting at the interior entrance to the old temple. Also a favorite.Lama throne in the new temple.Ritual objects.Temple incense offering bowl.The main altar in the new temple.The right side of the altar.A very old lock and keys.Monk showing us a ceremonial staff.Old table with stunning raised lacquer work.Old door latch.The old temple. Unfortunately, we had to leave before the sun got to the front. But at the link above there’s a photo of it in full light.The new temple.
Chinggis Khan, Parliament building, Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia
I’ve been having fun using a variety of photo effects on some of my iPad drawings using the Camera Awesome app on my iPad. I thought it would be interesting to do the same with a selection of my Mongolia photos. Here’s five I did this morning to see what I could come up with. I like it. So much of what one sees in Mongolia has an iconic, storybook quality that the images really lend themselves to “special effects”.
Bactrian camels with Zurgul Uul in the background, Bayan Onguul soumHorse trainer, DalanjargalanGers on a stormy day, en route from Ikh Nart to Gun-Galuut, 2011Decorative carving on old temple, Gachen Lama Khiid, Erdenesogt, Khangai Mountains, 2010
Susan Fox, American Artist 